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Project Honda CRX: Part 2

The perils of bodywork
April, 2009
By Dan Barnes
Photography by Dan Barnes, Henry DeKuyper
1990 Honda CRX HE Coupe Rear Left
Fixing a Dent
Most of the work done to our CRX was done while we were somewhere else, getting other work done. One day, we sent a photographer to Cypress Auto Body to show what was being done to the car. That day, it turned out to be boring and not very informative, so they used one of the original front fenders to demonstrate the process of fixing a dent. Ideally, a good body man will get the metal nearly perfect. The reality is that that takes far too much highly skilled labor to be justified for any but the most valuable collector cars, and filler is used. Even filler takes time, however. With the labor rates most shops must charge to pay for their overhead, it is generally best to do as we did, and simply replace a dented panel, if possible.

These are some of a body man's most basic tools. A dual-action sander, the big one, rotates slowly while orbiting in very small circles, to remove material at a gentle, controlled pace, and leave a surface free of deep scratches. The angle grinder is a big axe in comparison, and will cut through paint and filler and dig deep into metal quickly. Hammers, rasps and sanders are self-explanatory. The curved block of metal is called a dolly, and is used to support sheet metal while it is being hammered on, so the basic form of the metal is not distorted while flattening a minor ding.

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The general shape of the fender... 
   
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The general shape of the fender is restored with a slapping spoon and dolly.
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Smaller high spots are flattened... 
   
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Smaller high spots are flattened with a pick hammer while supporting the panel from behind with a toe dolly.
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When the metal is as smooth... 
   
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When the metal is as smooth as the technician can reasonably make it (a judgement determined by available skill, time, and money), it is power-sanded with a very coarse grit on the angle sander.
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This rough surface allows... 
   
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This rough surface allows the filler to get a solid grip on the metal.
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Filler should be used in very... 
   
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Filler should be used in very thin layers, for smoothing only--not for actually filling dents. If a thick layer is required, the metal should be shaped more thoroughly. Filler will shrink and crack, similar to dried mud, if it is applied too thickly. Plastic-resin fillers like this generally have about a five- year life span on the car. Metal-resin fillers are more expensive, but are said to be essentially permanent. Follow the instructions carefully when mixing filler, then spread it on smoothly over the entire area of the repair.
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When finished, the filler... 
   
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When finished, the filler should look like cream cheese on a warm bagel. If it begins to set and becomes more difficult to spread than creamy peanut butter, stop working it. Let that set, grind the surface, and add more from a fresh mix where needed. Working the material after it begins to stiffen weakens the resin and introduces porosity.
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After it has hardened, the... 
   
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After it has hardened, the filler is sanded with a long board to follow the contour of the car. Be careful here; it is always easier to take off a little more after checking the shape than to add more filler and start over.
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Armstrong-type sanding is... 
   
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Armstrong-type sanding is done with a very coarse grit for rough shaping, then, several steps of progressively finer grit papers.
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The dual-action sander is... 
   
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The dual-action sander is used with finer grits to remove sanding scratches left by the sanding board. The end result should be perfectly smooth and follow the original contour of the metal.
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The repair is then ready for... 
   
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The repair is then ready for primer. Most states require paint to be sprayed in a fully enclosed booth. This article isn't about all the different kinds of paint and how to choose and use them, though, because a whole issue could be filled by the topic.
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If priming on the car, any... 
   
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If priming on the car, any part of the car that is not going to be primed and painted, such as windows and trim, must be masked to eliminate overspray. Once the body reaches this point, it is ready for total priming and sanding with a guide coat in preparation for the color coats.
Sources
Cypress Auto Body
Hawaiian Gardens, CA
Phone (562) 938-8836

Hasport Performance
Phoenix, AZ
Phone (602) 470-0065
Fax: (602)470-0516
www.hasport.com

Honda Auto Salvage
Phoenix, AZ
Phone (602) 470-0065

King Motorsports

Sullivan, WI
Phone (262) 593-2800
Fax: (262)593-2667
www.kingmotorsports.com

Koni North America
Hebron, KY
Phone (869) 586-4100
Fax: (869)334-3340
www.koni-na.com

Neuspeed
Camarillo, CA
(800) 423-3623
(805)388-7171
www.neuspeed.com

P&G Auto Parts
Rialto, CA
(800) 566-4855
(909)873-2790
(909)873-2791
Fax: (909)874-2827
The Progress Group
Anaheim, CA
Phone (714) 575-1193
Fax (714) 575-1198
www.progressauto.com

The Tire Rack
South Bend, IN
Phone (888) 981-3957
or (219)287-2345
Fax (219) 236-7707
www.tirerack.com

Toyo Tire (U.S.A) Corp.
Cypress, CA
Phone (800) 678-3250
or (714)236-2080
Fax (714) 229-6186
www.toyo.com

Wings West

Newport Beach, CA
Phone (800) 222-6995
or (949)722-9995
Fax (949) 722-9997
(800) 493-4105
www.wingswest.com

ZDyne LLC
Canoga Park, CA, Arizona
Phone (818) 888-5360
www.zdyne.com

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