Project Honda S2000 Hondata Install

Honda S2000 Hondata Install Required Components

Honda S2000 Hondata Install F22c Engine Bay

Even with a highly developed, naturally-aspirated engine like the F22C, there are often impressive gains in midrange horsepower and torque to be found with careful ECU tuning. To that end, we decided to install a Hondata K-Pro, which will give us complete control over fuel and ignition timing curves, hopefully allowing us to find that hidden power.

What makes the K-Pro special is that it behaves like an OEM ECU. It interfaces with the stock dash correctly, cold start-up is just like stock and driveability is excellent. This shouldn't come as a surprise because the K-Pro upgrades are based on an OEM Honda ECU. If you find this as appealing as we do, then you'll need to choose between the two options Hondata offers: a brand-new K-Pro ECU for $1,795, or you can provide a donor ECU and the price drops to $1,395. We found the necessary PRB ECU ('02-04 RSX Type-S U.S. model) on www.car-part.com for $300 used. Both options include the Hondata wiring harness, USB communication cable and installation brackets.

To install a Hondata K-Pro in a '00-05 S2K, this is what needs to be done (for '06-and-later S2000s, a K-Pro option has just been released). First, you'll need to purchase the required OEM components to work with the ECU. This includes the following:

• Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003
• Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013
• TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003
• TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003
• Valve cover 12310-PCX-020
• Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000
• PCV valve 17130-PCX-003
• IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)

We found the best deal on these parts from Jeff at Hardtopguy.com. A quick visit to the website reveals a Hondata S2000 K-Pro installation kit with all of the necessary parts bundled together for $324.99.

Once you've received the ECU and all the OE installation components, you're ready to install the K-Pro! We have included step-by-step instructions with photos to complement the factory service manual (which leaves out some important details). Expect to spend approximately five to seven hours to get the job done.

Drain oil, remove cross brace and remove A/C brace (a crescent wrench allows access to all bolts without requiring removal of compressor).
Drain oil, remove cross brace and remove A/C brace (a crescent wrench allows access to all
Remove oil pan (there are multiple tabs you can pry on to release the sealant). Ensure all fasteners are removed before prying.
Remove oil pan (there are multiple tabs you can pry on to release the sealant). Ensure all

Remove the air intake, accessory belt, water pump pulley, idler, tensioner pulley (LH thread) and finally remove three fasteners attaching coolant tube to front cover and disconnect the hose from the heat exchanger near the oil filter (have a waste oil basin ready beneath the car to catch spilled coolant).
Remove the air intake, accessory belt, water pump pulley, idler, tensioner pulley (LH thre

Remove crankshaft pulley. This will require a special hex tool to hold the crankshaft in position while loosening the crank bolt. We found one at a local parts store for a reasonable price. Use the passenger framerail to hold the breaker bar attached to the tool and a large extension on the breaker bar on the bolt. It is tight! Once the bolt is removed, slide off the pulley.
Remove crankshaft pulley. This will require a special hex tool to hold the crankshaft in p
Remove crankshaft position sensor and front timing cover. Again, there are tabs available to pry gently to break the sealant free, and be sure all fasteners are removed.
Remove crankshaft position sensor and front timing cover. Again, there are tabs available
Remove crankshaft trigger wheel and replace with new part. Note the outside direction specified on the new trigger wheel and install so "outside" is visible.
Remove crankshaft trigger wheel and replace with new part. Note the outside direction spec