Hands down, the K-series lineup of engines is the superior choice for horsepower, reliability and overall performance when you're looking for a naturally aspirated setup in a Honda. Just look around any racing series and you'll notice K-motors in all the winning Hondas, whether it's drag, time attack or professional racing.
The B-series engines were great, but their time has past and thanks to some dedicated K-swap companies-like Hybrid Racing and K-Tuned-swapping a K20 or K24 into your old B-series-equipped DC, EK, EG, and even EF chassis has become a rather simple task. Still, it's not cheap and the whole shebang can cost anywhere from $5,000-$9,000, depending on the engine and parts. It's worth it, though, because once you see how easy is it to make obscene amounts of power you'll be happy you went the K-swap route.
But before I jump into the actual install portion of the swap, it's necessary to outline all the needed parts so that once you start you can actually finish the job in a matter of days rather than weeks when you have to wait around for missing parts. I find there is nothing more frustrating when you're missing something and the swap halts to a grinding stop. Hopefully, this guide will help you avoid the aforementioned situation.
K-Series "How To" Install DVD
This is a very handy DVD to have on hand and watch as it goes through the step-by-step process of the entire swap. Many helpful tips are provided.
Having driven both K24- and K20-equipped Hondas, I found the K20 to be more enjoyable engine largely in part due to its amazing revs. The K24 is a torque monster, but the fun factor got me at the end and I opted for a K20A2, which I sourced for around $2,000. That's on the cheaper side of the spectrum, but it was missing the shift linkage and ECU. You can always opt for the Type-R version K20A which will provide more power (220 hp vs. 200 hp) and an LSD trans, but it'll cost you significantly more.
Shifter Box And Linkage
You'll need to have both the shifter box and cables for the swap. Ensure that you get '02-04 cables otherwise there are two large metal weights (as seen in the photo) that you'll spend quite a bit of time cutting off in order to make the cables work.
Unfortunately, you can't just plug the stock ECU in and have it work. That's because there's an immobilizer built into it to deter theft. Luckily, Hondata has the solution. Its K-Pro ECU upgrade takes your regular K20A ECU and rids it of the immobilizer. More importantly, it becomes a fully tunable ECU, which is essential to take full advantage of the motor setup.
K20 Swap A/C Kit
Before this kit, keeping your A/C in a K-swapped Honda meant a lot of custom lines and fabrication. Now with Hybrid Racing's A/C kit the install is a bolt-in affair using the stock K20 A/C compressor.
Integra K-Swap Intake
This is a purpose-built intake specifically for the K-swap and ensures proper fitment on the stock intake manifold as well as having provisions for all the proper sensors.