Tuning For The Track - Suspension Tuning - Tech

So you’ve completed the basics: a set of dedicated track wheels and tires, along with some track-capable brake pads and high-temp brake fluid. You’ve been lapping, honing your craft and have probably completed a track day with coaching or even a racing school. What’s next? How do you get the most from your car and continue to lower your lap times, aside from more seat time and coaching?

The answer is from your suspension. Tuning your vehicle’s handling can yield the greatest lap-time improvements per dollar of any modification, as well as making the whole experience more enjoyable. I’m going to break down suspension tuning into a series of steps to get the most from your vehicle.

First off, you’ll need some tools to help evaluate your changes and ensure repeatability. Invest in a nice tire-pressure gauge, tire pyrometer and toe plates with two matching tape measurers, and a data system of some sort that gives you lap times. If it’s in the budget, a digital camber gauge is worthwhile. Be sure to start a binder with setup notes so you can keep track of changes made and what works — this is a must-have. Armed with your tools, you’ll either need a flat surface at the track or borrow someone’s setup pad to take all your measurements on.

But before you even head to the track, if there’s one thing you can do, it’s a high-performance alignment at a reputable shop. Alignment settings are so crucial that I check all of the pro race cars I set up before every session. You’d be surprised how far components can move after minor contact or dropping wheels in the dirt. This is where your toe plates can be used to make sure your toe remains the same. (Using a paint pen to match-mark your eccentric bolts prior to your alignment can be a quick way to identify what has changed after a session.) You’re going to want to do some research on your particular vehicle to see what’s needed to hit at least 3 degrees of camber front and rear. Each tire is unique and will need some time spent with the pyrometer to find its optimum camber settings, but I’ve yet to work with a tire/suspension combination of any type that isn’t working well at 3 degrees negative.

Our bumpsteer jig is nothing more than a flat plate drilled to 5x14.3 inches and a pair of dial indicators. Recording the dial indicator readings at 1-inch increments from -2-inch to +2-inch wheel travel allows for precise measurement of toe change in ride (or bumpsteer).

Our bumpsteer jig is nothing more than a flat plate drilled to 5x14.3 inches and a pair of

Refer to the chart for my recommendations — don’t be afraid to experiment, as these are just guidelines. Different driver abilities will require slight variations. Be warned if you’re using OEM-type rubber bushings that have considerable flex — you should keep your rear toe settings conservative, or the car may experience excessive oversteer. Rough/dusty track surfaces with low grip will work better at the low end of the camber adjustment range, whereas clean, smooth, sticky surfaces will work better at the higher end.

While your stock springs/dampers are perfectly adequate to get around the track, they’re most certainly not designed for the task. To achieve the ride-comfort targets set by the manufacturer, road-going cars are always sprung and damped too soft for serious track use. Lowering springs will serve to lower your car’s center of gravity, which will increase cornering grip and provide increased spring rates, minimizing pitch and roll to improve the car’s response and help maintain your target alignment settings.

Recommended Track Alignment Settings