Autopower supplies the self-locking mounting hardware, drilling templates and backing plates (that spread stress across a larger area). This particular item was manufactured with 1.75-inch-diameter, 0.12-inch-thick walled DOM bar and meets SCCA and NASA regulations in terms of construction.
Despite not being required by sanctioning bodies, having the bar still offers several advantages: proper mounting points for the shoulder harnesses on a five-point seat belt, a huge increase in chassis stiffness, added safety in the event of a side impact or roll over and, of course, strange looks from people.
The bolt-in Autopower roll bar is probably the most inexpensive and effective option for safety and chassis rigidity on a non-race track car. A roll cage that ties in the front and the rear would be better, as the weakest part of the chassis is now between the A and B pillars, but that requires hoops that come dangerously close to a non-helmet-wearing head.
Last on the list of track necessities are gauges. Unlike street cars with dashboards lit up like Christmas trees by useless electronics, track cars really need gauges, because of the severe conditions they have to endure. The essentials are coolant temperature, oil pressure and oil temperature. If any of these parameters move out of their limits, it's time to back off and bring the car in. Anything else is just added weight, since there's rarely time to take your eyes off the track. Boost pressure, EGT, A/F and other things should all be well sorted out and tested before even setting foot (tire?) on a track.
Project Corolla's old-school sporty heritage meant that it already had a coolant temp and oil pressure indicator in the gauge cluster, but neither had a reference scale and were of questionable accuracy. These gauges aren't the most reliable; by the time a warning light pops off, the car is probably already hurt. I installed a set of Auto Meter Sport-Comp II series 52mm gauges and stuck them high in the dash for better visibility.
Critical coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges were fitted into the non-functioning air conditioning ducts either side of the gauge cluster, while oil and transmission temperature gauges sit where the original A/C controls used to be. The transmission temp gauge was wired into a sender located in the differential housing. We did this since the diff is notorious for breaking under higher torque applications.
Even though oil and differential temperatures aren't as crucial, they should be monitored to prevent cooking the bearings when engine oil breaks down above 300 degrees F. I also threw in a voltage gauge in case the alternator decides to die on me. Again.
 The Autopower four-point race...  The Autopower four-point race roll bar bolts into the base of the B-pillars and rear wheel wells. It's made to fit with the interior installed and features a recessed harness cross brace (for taller drivers), head restraint and diagonal cross brace. |  |  Autopower includes all the...  Autopower includes all the bolts and lock nuts, drilling templates and heavy-gauge steel reinforcement plates to be clamped to the factory sheetmetal. |
Auto Meter suggested the full-sweep electric gauges from the Sport-Comp II line for this application because of their new, clear, backlit LED feature and the smaller sending units, which are easier to fit into import vehicles. They also have a memory feature that holds each gauge at its last reading when the car is shut off, so you can check after leaving the track. I wired in an illumination interrupt switch, giving me the option of turning off the bright backlighting.
Every Pimp Ride Needs Tint
I was first introduced to 3M Crystalline window tint while heading out to lunch in regular contributor Mike Kojima's car on a 95-degree day. It's a clear film that reflects up to 38 percent of heat coming through a windshield as well as 99 percent of UV radiation, something I absolutely had to have in a track car with no A/C or fans.